Desert Lions Update

One of our favorite aspects of a trip to Africa is the chance to see a lion while on a game drive. We've had some pretty exciting encounters over a few trips. We've witnessed a pride feast on a Cape Buffalo near our camp's gift shop. We watched cubs play tug-of-war with a giraffe's intestine. We've followed lions on the hunt and had them no more than 4 feet from us while in open-air jeeps. We saw a pride of 18 lions filled with cubs, then on a return trip 30 months later, we found the same pride and saw the cubs all grown-up.

A memorable encounter was on our recent(ish) trip to Namibia where we got to see the famous 5 Musketeers. There are approximately 70 desert-adapted lions in the world. These 5 brothers/cousins were the subject of the documentary Vanishing Kings that started airing under the name Desert Warriors: Lion of the Namib on Smithsonian Channel. The documentary focuses on the young five male lions and their struggles to survive and perpetuate the species in a vast location with so few of their species around. At the end of the movie they show two unrelated females nearing the 5's territory. Will they meet up and breed?

We follow the website Desert Lion Project to keep up with the boys and to see some incredible photography. Good news is the lionesses and the males did connect. We do not have information on their success in breeding opportunities. They have encountered each other several times over the last few months. The biggest news of all though is that the lions have been in some unfortunate encounters with farmer/herder settlements. Corralled goats and cows are tempting. The foundation, government, and villagers worked on methods to chase the lions away, including firework trip wires. They worked for a bit. Read the rest of the story in the screen shots below taken from the Desert Lion Project website.

13 Jun 2016. Conflict. When the five male lions (the “Musketeers”) moved past the temporary cattle post (12 km west of Tomakas) two days ago a human-lion conflict incident occurred somewhere between the cattle post and Otjizeka spring (15 km further west). The exact details of the incident are still unclear. Deep inside a Salvadora thicket at Otjizeka spring Xpl-89 “Harry” died of a mortal bullet wound to the chest during the early morning hours on 12 Jun 2016 (photo: bottom right). When the remaining four lions were observed at sunset, two of the males showed signs of injuries. Xpl-92 “Adolf” had a new wound on his right cheek (photo: bottom left) and Xpl-91 “Ben” appeared to have a bullet wound. The photos below suggest that he may have been shot in the lower stomach (photos: top middle & right and bottom middle). It would appear that the bullet passed straight through. The Ministry of Environment & Tourism was informed of the developments. The Purros Conservancy, MET, IRDNC, Okahirongo Elephant Lodge and DLP are all working together to defuse the tense situation.

14 Jun 2016. Xpl-89 "Harry". Finding the carcass of Xpl-89 inside the Salvadora thickets was challenging and required crawling for approximately 30 metres through the thick undergrowth (photos: top row). An autopsy was performed on the carcass and biological samples were collected. The lion died quickly from a single gunshot to the chest. The bullet passed through the heart and lungs. The remaining four male lions were monitored closely and the bullet wound to Xpl-91 “Ben” does not appear to be serious. Two Okongwe lionesses joined the males during the night and after sunrise they were all observed scaling the tall mountains to the south of the Gomatum valley.

19 Jul 2016. Cow. At 03h20 the four adult males approached the Ondudupi village where the cattle were inside a rudimentary corral made of Mopane branches (photo: top left). The lions responded immediately to a display of bright flashing lights / fireworks and they moved away. However, one kilometre south of the village, the lions unfortunately encountered and killed a lone cow that did not return to the corral. At dawn the lions moved to the safety of a nearby gorge.

3 Aug 2016. Tomakas Situation. The human-lion conflict situation at Tomakas and the Gomatum River has become unmanageable. A few days ago a man encountered the four adult males (the “Musketeers”) in a narrow wash 3.5 km north of Tomakas whilst riding on donkey. The man fled into the mountains and walked to Tomakas. The incident was investigated and it was confirmed that the lions killed the donkey. They dragged and left the saddle under a tree (photo: below middle). The saddle was returned to its owner. Thereafter, on 2 Aug 2016, the four males moved past Tomakas and killed two goats. The people of Tomakas have been patient and tolerant of the lions disrupting their lives, but they cannot continue living under these conditions. Removing the lions from the area is necessary. The lions have expanded their range into an area of human settlement that is not suitable lion habitat. Our efforts to deter and cause the lions to vacate the area have failed. The Ministry of Environment & Tourism are being consulted to find an amicable solution.

5 Aug 2016. Xpl-93. The adult male lion Xpl-93 left his brothers and moved to Okongwe Waterhole. The remaining three “Musketeers” yet again approached Tomakas village between 02h00 and 03h00 this morning. They nonetheless responded immediately to a display of flashing lights/fireworks and moved off in an easterly direction along the Gomatum River.

10 Aug 2016. Tragedy. On 6 Aug 2016 the Ministry of Environment & Tourism approved the translocation of the four “Musketeers” from Tomakas to the Uniab Delta as a last-resort effort to solve the on-going human-lion conflict. Several parties participated with the planning of this operation: an aircraft was secured to transport the lions from Purros to Terrace Bay, vehicles were gathered to take the lions from Tomakas to Purros and finally from Terrace Bay to the Uniab Delta as we waited for the three males to return from the mountains and reconnect with Xpl-93.

However, the three males encountered a new and previously unknown cattle post of semi-nomadic pastoralists. The lions killed a donkey and the people (previously from Omiriu and then Ondudupi) retaliated by poisoning the lions. The carcasses and the satellite collars of the lions were then burnt. With this tragic development a difficult decision had to be made about the fate of the lone survivor. With the Ministry of Environment & Tourism we darted Xpl-93, loaded him in the Desert Lion Project Land Cruiser and started the long journey to the Uniab Delta. The convoy of three vehicles struggled through the Floodplain and dunes that were covered in thick fog. We finally reached the mouth of the Uniab River at 05h25 and found a narrow wash with some protection to off-load Xpl-93 (photos below).

11 Aug 2016. Uniab Delta. The last survivor of the “Five Musketeers”, Xpl-93 also known as “Tullamore”, has recovered from the ordeal of translocating him to the Uniab Delta (photos below). The lion was kept sedated for 14.5 hrs and transported in the back of the research vehicle for 279 km from Tomakas to the mouth of the Uniab River. He is currently feeding on an Oryx carcass and his movements will be monitored closely. The Ministry of Environment & Tourism must be commended for their leading role in the operation and thanks also go to Namibia Wildlife Resorts and Wilderness Safaris for their support. The Ministry of Environment & Tourism and the Namibian Police Force have launched a detailed investigation into the killing of the three males (Xpl-90, Xpl-91 & Xpl-92) 12 km north of Tomakas. The developments over the past few days may generate reactions in the published press and on social media. The Desert Lion Project would like to: a) state that the problems of human-lion conflict are complex and b) call on everyone using the information presented on this website to remain objective. The daily movements of Xpl-93 will now be posted under “Obab Lionesses”.

 

Namibia: Bikes and Boats

Other Posts: Trip Overview, Little Kulala Lodge, Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, Sesriem Canyon And Scenic Flight, Swakopmund Sandboarding, Walvis Bay Dune & Sea Tour, Doro Nawas Camp, Damarland Sites, Damaraland Living Village Song, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, The Skeleton Coast, Hoanib Game Drive and Lions, Serra Cafema Camp and Scenic Drive, The Himba

While at Serra Cafema Camp we spent a morning riding quad bikes. The last time we rode ATVs was 18 years ago at Dave's aunt's house, but that was just a short trip. This time we were going to be riding for a few hours in the desert.

The night before our excursion we noticed a teen/young adult in camp with a heavily bandaged arm. And yes, he did injure it on his quad excursion. Albert, our guide, said he didn't follow the rules and that is why he busted his arm. We would definitely follow the rules because we knew the nearest town was some 200 miles away.

It would be just the two of us with our guide that morning. Tony and Val departed for their next camp just before we took to the bikes (hooray). We had to pass a driving test before we could go out into the desert. After helmets and gloves were distributed, we walked to the ATV parking area and circular track. Albert taught us how to shift (of course they were manual) and watched us go around the track several times. After 3 laps he was confident we could handle the trip. Unfortunately the fist few moments were the hardest. We had to go up a pretty steep hill with loose rocks and a deep edge of a cliff on one side. Holly wasn't feeling too confident in this section. Fortunately it did not last too long and were were onto sand and dirt terrain.

Albert said if we got stuck In sand not to worry. He would eventually turn around and get us unstuck. Dave took advantage of his generosity 3 times. We covered about 50km alternating between long straightaways and small dune climbs. We had a few scenic stops including the sighting of the second Himba village. The only wildlife we encountered were a few oryx and springboks.

Later that afternoon we had our final activity of the trip, the scenic boat ride. We were joined by another couple from England (younger than us) tonight. Our trip would not be that long given that many sections of the river were too shallow this time of year. We started with a slow tour of camp from the water and then went to an area where the crocodiles usually hung out. We saw a few of them pretty close-up.

Sundowners tonight would be on the other side of the river, which was the country of Angola. We walked inland for a few minutes (sandals not the right choice of footwear for areas frequented by livestock) and watched a Chimba family bring their herd in for the evening.

After the trip we had enough time to enjoy our last few waking hours in camp watching the river go by and dining on the deck. The next morning we would take three different airplanes to get us back to Windhoek. Being conservative travelers we did not want to push our luck of missing the flight to Joburg that night. With lots of little planes involved we thought the logistics may be too aggressive. Instead, we relaxed in Windhoek with a trip to Joe's Beerhouse and another great dinner at the Olive Grove.

Our flight On Saturday to Johannesburg was in the afternoon, leaving us time to lounge around the inn for the morning and catch up on Facebook and such. In Joburg we had a marathon duty free shopping spree (great airport for souvenirs and nougat) that wore us out. We were looking forward to a few hours in the British Airways Lounge. As luck would have it, the attendant asked if we would take the same seats on the earlier flight, with the only real difference to us being time spent in JNB vs. Heatrhow. We agreed to the swap, leaving us only about a 30 minute rest before boarding our flight. We were glad we switched because the lounge in Heathrow was much nicer than the one in Joburg. We treated ourselves to showers, some really good high-end champagne they were serving, and Dave tried every scotch over 18yrs old. The rest of the trip back to Chicago was uneventful and we made it home in time to prepare to go back to work the next day.

 

Namibia: The Himba

Other Posts: Trip Overview, Little Kulala Lodge, Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, Sesriem Canyon And Scenic Flight, Swakopmund Sandboarding, Walvis Bay Dune & Sea Tour, Doro Nawas Camp, Damarland Sites, Damaraland Living Village Song, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, The Skeleton Coast, Hoanib Game Drive and Lions, Serra Cafema Camp and Scenic Drive

One of the activities offered at Serra Cafema Camp is an opportunity to tour a Himba village. The Himba are a tribe that live primarily in Northwest Namibia / Southern Angola. They are nomadic herders moving their cattle, goats, donkeys, and sheep where the grazing is best. Since it hasn't rained here in three years we had no idea how they were feeding their animals.

Albert our guide would give us (including our favorite couple Tony and Val) a tour around the village and aid in communications. A younger camp staffer took off ahead of us on a quad bike - likely to make sure everyone was show-ready. Most portions of this experience were authentic while other aspects were for the tourists. One thing we learned was the camp, as part of their concession grant, maintains a store for the local tribes. The himba can buy grains, textiles, and hair extensions among other things. Yes hair extensions. Nomadic people engaged in trade so why not setup by a place where trade can be conducted easily? The camp has a relation with the village - some people in the village work for the camp, the village relies on the camp store, The camp relies on the tribe to draw tourists, and the camp provides tourists to buy crafts so they have money for the store.

What made this experience different from the Damaraland Living Museum is the fact that this is actually how these people live today.

Albert gave us the rundown on etiquette. We were to meet with one of the women and say hello "Moro Moro" and introduce ourselves "o a me Name". We all did so without fail, including Val. The villager had a tough time saying "David" because V sounds are not part of their language so the translation became "Dawid". Albert told us about her customary clothing and the activities occurring in the village. All the men were gone taking care of the herd so we could only interact with women and children.

The women coat their skin with a paste made from ochre trees and other herbs and flowers, giving their skin an orange-red tint. This acts as a sunscreen, cleanser, insect repellant, and perfume. Their hair is actually cut short and what you see on top is a headpiece. Women won't wear one until they have given birth. In traditional times the long decorations were made from animal skin and tails. Now they are made from hair extensions bought at the camp store.

Albert took us to meet two other ladies and gave us some more insight on daily life. Women do most of the heavy lifting - cooking, cleaning, building the homes, fetching water, etc. This village was about 3 miles from the river where our camp was. The villagers that work in our camp choose to walk to-and-from the village each day rather than stay in the camp staff quarters. The villages are not fenced in because the only animal threat in this part of the region is crocodiles, and they don't move too far from the river. The Himba use a variety of materials to craft their shelters depending on what they can find or trade for with the camp store or other settlements.

Another interesting fact is they do have a sense of patriotism for Namibia despite seeming "off the grid". Across the river in Angola are the Chimba - a similar tribe that differentiates itself with its name to signify where they are from. Modern society does pull the Himba youth to want to experience the world outside the tribe, much like we in America would compare the Amish Rumspringa. Public schools are available to the Himba but many don't send their children fearing they will leave the traditional life for good. The boom in tourism and the regular exposure to Europeans and North Americans is likely expanding their curiosity.

We walked around for a bit, asked Albert more questions, and watched the children play a game of "kick the cricket". Another guide whom arrived after we did called out "store-o" and everyone scattered. Within a few moments a semi-circualar bazaar was open for our shopping pleasure. Albert would do all the translations for us and there was no haggling. We had a mix of Namibian Dollar, Rand, and U.S. Dollar. The exchange rate at the time was $1 for 14 ZAR or ND (both currencies share the same exchange rate) but in Himba camp it was $1 to 10 ZAR because the concept of ten was understandable to them.

Being cultural ambassadors we Browsed each person's offerings before we made purchases from several "shops". We picked up some bracelets made from PVC pipe that were carved with patterns, some nuts with carvings we can use as Christmas ornaments, and a woven plate with colored plastic wrapped around the strands to decorate it. Tony and Val didn't buy anything.

When we left the village Albert took us to an abandoned Himba village. Being nomadic, the Himba up-and-leave their villages and move along. The frames of the buildings remain. If the grazing areas are better another day they may return to this village. We asked if others would come in and squat and he said no because it doesn't belong to the squatters. Noticeable differences between this camp and the living camp were the presence of the boma (animal corral) and the sacred fire area.

More proof that Tony is oblivious to the outside world.

The day after our visit we had a quad bike trip (future post) and passed the village. Over the ridge was A SECOND VILLAGE! There was a boma here! So this is where the livestock was kept and we saw some men as we circled the area. We do believe that some folks did live in the homes we visited, but it was hard to accept that we got a truly authentic experience. It's understandable that people don't want to be on display for tourists. They just could have been a little more upfront about it.

To get a better feel for our experience we'll once again direct you to CNN's Inside Africa episode filmed while we were at camp. The crew visited the village the same day we did. Of course things were a bit more lively for the CNN team. If you look real hard you can see us having breakfast at the 2:42 mark. Holly is wearing the purple shirt.